Antelope Canyon is located 3 miles east of Page in north Arizona on Navajo Nation land - just outside the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area - close to AZ 98. It is the most visited slot canyon in the Southwest, partly because it is easily accessible, and also since it is extremely beautiful, with just the right combination of depth, width, rock color and ambient light; many others are deeper, narrower and longer, and some have rock that is even more colorful and sculptured, but here conditions are ideal.

Antelope Creek is a seasonal stream that flows into Lake Powell. Most of the watercourse is wide and sandy, but there are two sections of slot canyon near the lake (the Upper and Lower canyons), separated by several miles of flat terrain. Both may be approached from road AZ 98; the Upper canyon (also known as Corkscrew Canyon) is reached at the end of a very sandy 2-mile 4WD track south of the road near milepost 299, and it is this part that is usually visited. Lower Antelope Canyon is between AZ 98 and the lake; there is a short track northwards leading to a parking area from which guided tours departs.

Antelope Canyon has become the southwest's most popular slot canyon. Thousands have now walked through its convoluted passages and images of it are now so wide spread that it really doesn't belong under a heading of "hidden canyons" A secret spot known only to the locals and a few photographers, Antelope Canyon was thrust into the public eye by photographer Bruce Barnbaum who published directions to it in a book of his black and white photography. Soon other photographers were traveling there, taking groups in, and spreading the word. The Navajo soon realized there was money to be made and put up a gate in front of the entrance to the wash leading to the narrows and began to charge a fee to enter. Not to be outdone, the tour operators of nearby Page, Arizona began busing people back into the canyon and tacking on an additional charge for their services.

Years ago it was possible to spend the entire day in its convoluted passage without ever seeing another soul. It was so quiet you could hear your heart beating. Unfortunately those days are gone for Antelope Canyon. Today several photo tours came along (over 35 photographers with gear) and crowded the canyon, which narrows to only 3 feet in some areas. They scratched the delicate walls of the canyon with their tripods trying to get around other photographers. And then to my horror van after van came down the wash with hundreds of tourists and their screaming kids and video cameras. The good news about Antelope is they've made it very easy to get to. The bad news is when you get there you'll be shoulder to shoulder with people who don't give a damn about the spirit of these haunting places. The haunting silence of Antelope Canyon is gone. Please do not sign on with these tours, the leaders of them care only about how many people they can squeeze in and how much money they can make doing it.

Upper Antelope Canyon: Originally, private 4WD vehicles were allowed to drive to the Upper canyon, but now all visitors arrive by escorted jeep transport. It is now not possible to continue on foot, although for many people this may be a good thing - walking is very difficult, especially in the intense heat of summer - the 2 miles through deep shifting sand took over an hour.

This is the section of Antelope Canyon that most people visited. It's easy to get into as it has a flat sandy bottom.

When approaching the canyon, there is no obvious clue as to its location. The trail seems to end at the base of a red sandstone plateau about 65 feet high, but the sight of an Indian jeweler stall soon indicates its position - the canyon is a narrow curved slit in the cliffs only a few meters wide. Once inside the entrance, the temperature drops 20 degrees as you enter one of the most beautiful of all natural formations. The sunlight filtering down the curved sandstone walls makes magical, constantly changing patterns and shadows in many subtle shades of color. Some sections of the canyon are wide and bright, while others are narrower and more cave-like, with no light reaching the sandy floor. After only 500 feet or so, the canyon becomes suddenly much shallower near the top of the plateau. It may take only 3 minutes to walk through, but the canyon is well worth the arduous trek or expensive journey required to get there. Pictures taken here adorn camera shops and photographic manuals throughout the world, and usually there will be several people with tripods and light meters trying to compose the perfect shot, and grumbling when other people walk in front of their 2-minute exposure.

Lower Antelope Canyon: The Lower canyon is longer and deeper than the Upper section, but also more challenging and requires ropes or ladders in some places to descend several sheer drops. It was here that 11 people were drowned in a flash flood in August 1997; water 50 feet deep from a thunderstorm 5 miles away swept through the canyon, eventually deepening it by 4 feet. Lower Antelope was closed for 9 months but people are now allowed in again although a guide must accompany all visitors.

Lower Antelope is a deep convoluted passage with steep drop offs and shear overhangs. It's more like a long thin cave than a canyon. The Navajo have put 30-40 ft. stepladders in to help tourists get deep into the rift. In places the walls are only 36" apart. It's a difficult place to get into and an even more difficult place to get out of if you’re in a hurry.

The rocks that make up the canyon are the petrified remains of prehistoric sand dunes laid down when a shallow ocean filled this portion of North America. Cross bedding is noticeable in the soft sandy walls. Many large over hangs with spiraling grooves carved into the sandstone loom overhead.

As the sun climbed higher in the sky the light bouncing into the canyon began it's magic. The chocolate and peach colored walls rise up about 110 feet. Formed by hundreds of thousands of years of flash floods the walls sweep up and over it's awed visitors. The view straight up is also spectacular. Deep violets and reds give way to pink, orange, and finally yellow near the top of the opening. Bird's nests and chunks of debris can be seen high above.

Down at the canyon bottom the walls are beginning to glow an unearthly orange. The sun bounces off the walls above and with each bounce gets more and more intense. It is at this time the canyon is at its most magical moment.

Reactions to this spectacle are mixed. For some the experience borders on the religious. Others report a felling of dread, like they are in a place humans are not supposed to see. A chamber of the gods. It is indeed a unique experience and one not soon forgotten.